Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Basilicanum Grey (18ml)

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Pallid Bone is a bit warmer and softer than Skeleton Horde, Hardened Leather is very similar to Gore-grunta Fur, while Sand Golem is a warm light brown. Dark Wood is like a mix of Wyldwood and Cygor Brown. Crusader Skin is a bit more reddish than Guilliman Flesh. Let’s start with the warm colours. Zealot Yellow is a little more orange than Iyanden Yellow, Fire Giant Orange a little more tomato red. Blood Red and Blood Angels Red are almost identical. Slaughter Red has slightly more prominent highlights, whereas Flesh Tearers Red is a little darker. Purple Alchemy is clearly darker than Volupus Pink and should perhaps be thinned with a little bit of Speedpaint Medium. Hive Dweller Purple is also slightly darker than Shyish Purple, but dries much less patchy. To find out which Speedpaints reactivate and which do not, I painted all of them on my trusty sheet of plasticard and let them dry for over 24 hours, to make sure that really all of the medium has evaporated. I’m using Spaceship Exterior Warpaint to paint over the left halves, and Corax White over the right halves, which are both very light greys. As you can see, no matter which Speedpaint I’m painting over, the paint reactivates and discolours my acrylic paint. Neither Warpaints or Citadel paints make a difference.

Agrax Earthshade if you want I guess, could add a little definition around the rings further along the gun Wash the sign (both the lettering and the red) with diluted (1:1 parts water to paint) Basilicanum Grey. Wash armor and weapons with a 3:1 mix of Army Painter Strong Tone and Vallejo Sepia Ink (any brown ink will do) Paint a few detail bits on the underside Leadbelcher, wash Nuln, good enough for stuff people will never see.Spray a smaller highlight in the same corner with a brighter blue, such as Lothern Blue or Baharroth Blue. These areas were then edge highlighted with Dawnstone . On the barrel of the gun, I didn’t highlight any of the areas around the parts that would be glowing since that would get lost in the glow anyway. The bases were GW texture paint, that after the overspray from the original airbrushing, were washed with the same dull green I used on the metals, spotted washes of Vallejo dark green, some additional browns pushed around the edges of the greens and then all washed with GW. Nuln Oil “Gloss” to give the ground the damp-swamp feel.

Here I just smooshed on Contrast: Guilliman Flesh on the skin & Contrast: Space Wolves Grey on the fur. Paint the doors, sign, awning and roof with Caliban Green. Paint the ribs of the awning with Rakarth Flesh. Also these guides using colours from a single paint range using that ranges techniques, base coat upwards etc only speak for those invested in that paint range. The sculpt is by Seb Perbet and it's my favourite character from the set i think. I love everything that's going on in the scene. It's a mini diorama really with the goblin tripping out on shrooms and seeing his visions come to life! Overall I’m happy. They are a little messier than my normal minis mostly because I was pushing to get them done. However even if I slow down it won’t take too long and is easily replicated!

Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones’ Method

Highlight the yellow areas with a brighter yellow, such as Flashgitz Yellow. You can accentuate this further with an edge highlight of Dorn Yellow. Optional) Sponge Chipping: Weather the cars by dabbing a torn piece of foam in a dark grey, like Eshin Grey or Skavenblight Dinge, then dabbing this against the model (do this before you paint the lights). Add another “scratchy” highlight of Formula P3 Bootstrap Leather [or mix more Screaming Skull or Ushabti Bone into Rhinox Hide] to build up texture. Gavinthekaiser on reddit’s r/boltaction forum posted his Italian Gavinthekaiser painted with Citadel Contrast Paints in what might be one of the simplest, but effective paint schemes out there so far.

You could have waited to do the agrax wash on the cloth until after the metals and such are done to save a bit of time here. Drakenhoff all over the floors, making sure it goes into the recesses at the edge and the ones with the screws in them.You can probably skip the sepia in the recesses here, as it is not particularly impactful to the final models. Spray a lighter blue in the corner (either a top or bottom corner depending on how high you imagine the sun to be), such as Caledor Sky or Temple Guard Blue. Paint Guns with Citadel Contrast Snakebite Leather or Citadel Contrast Wyldwood (Wood) and Citadel Contrast Space Wolves Grey (Metal) (I substituted Vallejo Brown Ink as I didn’t have any Snakebite leather this stage)

The next step is to hit the metal bits with Leadbelcher. This means the wall-mounted generators plus the exposed bits where the outer layer of wall has been stripped away. Muskets, musket rests and powder flasks (the triangular-shaped objects on the musketeer’s right sides): GW Wyldwood contrast. Optional) Sponge Chipping: Weather the Traffic Lights by dabbing a torn piece of foam in a dark grey, like Eshin Grey or Skavenblight Dinge, then dabbing this against the model (do this before you paint the lights). Necrons: The Necrons are an ancient alien race that relies on a combination of advanced technology and reanimation protocols to achieve victory. Basilicanum Grey can be used to great effect on their vehicles and constructs, giving them a sleek and menacing appearance.Highlight armor and weapons with a VERY light drybrush of Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold (Focus near the top/front of these elements, the steel is not supposed to be shiny! I knew when I saw it that it would be great fun to paint. Not only because it's an awesome miniature but I knew I could throw a lot of colour onto it as well. Bandoliers and The Twelve Apostles (powder-filled bottles): Snakebite Leather (this contrasts nicely with the belts). For my The Army Painter Speedpaint review, I painted Contrast, Speedpaints, Instant Colors from Scale 75, and Antithesis paints from Warcolours on a sheet of plasticard that I primed with Corax White primer. I photographed the sheet under 5500K neutral light to reproduce the colours as authentically as possible.