The main reason I hear that puts people off using a leather saddle is the break-in period. There are horror stories aplenty, but it needn’t be as bad as all that. Each manufacturer has its own recommended system, and if you dive into any forum or message board there are a tonne of leather saddle fanaticists, each with their own secret to breaking in. I’ve no doubt the following will enrage some of them, but this is my go-to method for breaking in: One coat of leather conditioner focusing primarily on the underside of the saddle, and one very wet ride of no longer than two hours. It is worth noting that some manufacturers like Berthoud pre-apply a grease before sale to aid waterproofing, so you needn't add any yourself for the first year.

Brooks Swift Leather Saddle - Honey - SJS Cycles Brooks Swift Leather Saddle - Honey - SJS Cycles

The Brooks Imperial is an extreme example, but leather saddles are going to bother the weight weenies (Image credit: Will Jones)If you wish to return your bike to us please keep it in the box it arrived in and call us on 01772 644340 and we will arrange a collection. Many models are available with or without a cutout. In my experience, these aren’t as beneficial as they are for synthetic models, as, once broken in they're essentially redundant. However, they do make for a saddle with a little more initial give, as the removal of the central material allows the sides of the upper to sag inwards a touch, which can cause the side wings to flare out. This is why you’ll often see saddles with cutouts having a web of cord under to hold the sides in place. Perhaps think of them less as relief channels, and more as break in relief.

The Brooks Swift - Life In The Saddle The Brooks Swift - Life In The Saddle

This Swift is a beautiful thing to behold, but after 2500 miles it is still not flexible at all. This means it will outlast me, but I am not happy to spend so much and have to endure such a long break-in. I am treating only with Proofide and Leather Life. The previous saddle was soaked in neats-foot and beaten with many objects, chiefly a softball bat, and just got good when I was ready to give up on it, 32 years later. Proofide and other products are primarily leather conditioners, not waterproofing agents, and should be used sparingly (Image credit: Will Jones) How to care for a leather saddle As soon as I got into mtbkng in 03 I had numbness issues in my toes and thigh. I eventually figured out that my saddle and my sit bones were not in tune. I tried the WTB Laser Stealth, and it was an improvement, but not enough better. I went to the Brooks, as so many reviewers rave about them and my issue led me to think that this was my best hope. Now, contrary to what I’ve said above, leather saddles don’t really like getting wet, and you should do your best to protect them from the rain as much as possible. Fortunately, when you’re sitting on one you are doing a pretty good job of protecting the upper from the rain. The underside however is very vulnerable to tyre spray, and as such it’s recommended you use mudguards. If like me, you think mudguards are a vibe then this won’t concern you much, and you should take it as confirmation that you are also a person of great taste and distinction. If however you can't, or won't, run fenders then your options are a saddle cover, or a staunch refusal to ride in the rain. In fact, despite the claims that it takes hundreds of miles to 'bed in a Brooks' I found that straight from the intricate box, the Brooks was very comfortable.a) If we have sent you the incorrect bicycle, we will cover the cost of collection and delivery of the correct model. It's also worth noting that this will absolutely void your warranty, with Brooks expressly mentioning "riding a completely saturated saddle" in their warranty exceptions, so do so at your own risk. If you can this is all best done in a controlled environment. The absolute ideal would be on a turbo trainer at home, so you can stop once it has sagged to a degree you are happy with and no more. What's more, some saddles will sag faster than others; my Brooks Swallow formed within an hour, so the more careful and controlled you can be the better. A few short stints will be better in the long run than one long one where you overshoot the break-in point. Subsequently, Brooks England saddles have caught my eye adorning so many great bikes; from the Rapha filmsteeds, to B17s on famous round-the-world bikes. A slight, but noticeable upward tilt is advantageous to keep you in the ideal position when using a leather saddle (Image credit: Will Jones) Positioning and setup So it was, that when my 21st Birthday approached this spring, and my parents wanted to get me something "memorable and special, that will last a lifetime"; instead of a watch, wallet, or cufflinks, I opted for a Brooks England Swift saddle.

Brooks England - Saddles and Accessories at Condor Cycles Brooks England - Saddles and Accessories at Condor Cycles

Saddle loops mean extra baggage capabilities (Image credit: Will Jones) Is it hard to break in a leather saddle? I chose the Swift because it has more of a race bike geometry, and lends itself better to a drop-bar bikethan the famous B17. I am very glad I did. Not only is it fantastic on my steel training bike, it is a real craftsman's art: thechamfered sides, bashed copped rivets, and the chrome rails, really look special and should last a long long time. As with any saddle you want to make sure your weight is in the right place. One thing you’ll notice in pictures of bikes with leather saddles is they are often run with a slight nose-up tilt. Thanks to the leather uppers being quite slippery the upward tilt ensures you slide rearwards to a happy resting place where your thighs meet the flare at the rear. A flat setup, or worse a downward tilt, would see you sliding forwards so that your soft tissue is resting on the narrow nose, which isn’t particularly pleasant. Buying second hand Brooks saddles ship out with a little sachet of ‘Proofide’. There’s a relatively common misapprehension that this is a waterproofing treatment, given its greasy nature, but it’s a leather conditioner. It will add waterproof qualities, but its job is to soften the leather to aid the break-in process. It should be used sparingly, as overdoing it will over-soften the leather upper and eventually lead to sagging over and above that which is optimal.

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I am converted. I now realise why Brooks has such a history as a company, and I'm glad that I have a little bit of that history on one of my bikes. So there it is, an answer to my friend's question, "How was the Brooks?". It was so comfortable that I didn't even notice it on a 130 mile ride, it is beautiful, and it is built to last. While synthetic saddles come in a bewildering variety of shapes, sizes and widths, leather saddles are remarkably simple in comparison. For starters there is no real requirement for exact widths as your own personal anatomy will dictate the final form. Generally speaking, though the shape of your leather saddle will be dictated by your riding style. A more upright position for touring or commuting would require a bigger perch as more of your weight is placed on the saddle and less on the hands. In contrast, if you’re riding a very aggressive position you’ll need a narrower option to account for the forward rotation of the pelvis and the fact that more of your weight is supported by your arms. When I was first getting into cycling, I read Robert Penn's 'It's All About The Bike'. One of the most interesting and historical additions to his dream custom road build bike, was his Brooks England saddle. Since reading about the intricate, careful and unique process, which creates every Brooks saddle by hand in the Birmingham factory, I really began to see the beauty of them. You should always keep proof of postage and we advise you to use a ‘signed for service’ when returning goods.

Brooks swallow or swift? - Singletrack World Magazine Brooks swallow or swift? - Singletrack World Magazine

It is an expensive saddle, but I have spent more in the last 2 years on other makes trying to cure my chaffing problem. I once test-rode a Schwinn Paramount with a worn-in Brooks that was posterior heaven, and that is why I buy them, but I have more nerve than nirvana so far. My riding weights on these started at a skinny 130lbs in the 70s, up to ca 190; but for this Swift, prob 185 down to 170 or so. There have been subtle changes in the saddle: the colour has changed a bit, with the heat and friction; and the shape has changed as it moulds to myderrière. The comfort of the Swift comes from its shape, and its suspended leather design, which offers a surprising amount of suspension.

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